Family Morocco Itinerary: Marrakech, the Desert & Essaouira in 7 Days

We started with two nights in a riad inside the medina, and one detail made all the difference traveling with our son: the pool in the courtyard, which saved us with a tactical mid-afternoon nap. One thing we discovered when we arrived: taxis don't go into the medina, so it was a driver from the riad itself who picked us up at the entrance.

We enjoyed the city more by getting out early, before the heat set in. The Madrasa Ben Youssef, a 14th-century Islamic school, captivated the boy with its geometric patterns—we invented a game of counting stars on the ceiling and he was hooked. And at sunset, the Jemaa el-Fnaa square came alive with snake charmers, food stalls, and music. A tip we were glad to know: it's best not to photograph the monkeys, because afterward they ask for tips quite aggressively.

The main part of the trip was our desert escape, which we did with a private three-day, two-night tour: a 4x4 with a driver-guide, meals included, and a booster seat for our son (we requested it in advance). Delegating the driving while traveling with a child was one of the smartest moves we made.

On the first day we crossed the Atlas range via the Tichka Pass at over 2,200 meters, with a stop at the viewpoint to stretch our legs, and reached Aït Ben Haddou, a UNESCO-listed mud-brick citadel that looks like a movie set—and indeed it has been, many times. Walking through its alleyways at sunset, with golden light on the adobe, was one of the moments we treasure most from the entire trip.

On day two we drove toward Merzouga, stopping at the Todra Gorge—160-meter-high vertical walls where our son could run around a bit—before reaching the Erg Chebbi dunes. We accessed the camp by camel at sunset; they told us there was an alternative by 4x4 if the boy got tired, but he managed just fine and loved it.

The night in the tent was the heart of the trip: Berber dinner with tagine, tea, and percussion under a sky so full of stars we rarely see it back home. The tent was comfortable, with a bathroom and a bed for the three of us. At dawn we climbed a dune with the guide: it was cold, but watching the sun rise over the sea of sand made it more than worth it. What surprised us most was the silence.

After the intensity of the desert, we wrapped up with one night in Essaouira on the Atlantic coast, and the change of air was total: fresh breeze, a white and blue medina much quieter than Marrakech's, and a harbor where we picked fresh fish and had it cooked right there. After all that sand, we were grateful.

It was the perfect day to slow down: beach in the afternoon, a walk along the walls, and not much else. For transfers we used a private car with driver (with a booster seat for our son), who picked us up in Marrakech on our way back from the desert and the next day got us to the airport on time for our flight.

A couple of things we were glad we sorted before leaving. Documentation: Spain doesn't require a visa for stays under 90 days, but the child's passport must have at least six months validity from the date of entry (we confirmed this on the official country information sheet, and I recommend you do the same). We also bought comprehensive travel insurance with medical coverage for the three of us, because Morocco is not part of Schengen.

On the ground: days are hot, but the desert nights in April ran us around 8–10 °C, so a fleece jacket for the boy was essential, along with high-SPF sunscreen and bottled water always on hand. With that sorted, the trip ran smoothly.