Road trip through the Costa Brava and Pyrenees with a dog: 5 days between Empordà and Vall de Núria

The plan started with picking up a car in Barcelona early in the morning. With Lúa on board, we looked for an SUV with a spacious trunk so she could travel comfortably, secured with her certified harness; that small detail, plus breaks every couple of hours, made the drive smooth for all three of us.

We headed straight for Cadaqués and did it on purpose at the end of the day. Arriving late has a double benefit: parking is much easier and the June heat has already let up. The village is the perfect Costa Brava postcard—white streets climbing toward the church, boats, the sea beyond—and to our surprise, dogs walk around freely. We strolled unhurried with Lúa as the lights came on. We noted a dinner spot with sea views, Mediterranean cuisine with fresh ingredients, as a flexible plan: in high season it's worth reserving and asking if they allow dogs on the terrace, because many in Cadaqués do.

The second day was for hiking, so we got up early to avoid the heat. Cap de Creus Natural Park is the easternmost point of the Iberian Peninsula and feels like another planet: rock sculpted by the tramontana wind, hidden coves, and coastal trails that hug the sea. We did a circular route from Cadaqués of about three hours, with Lúa off-leash for much of the way. In her element: sniffing every corner and always a few meters ahead, as a restless border collie does.

One very practical reminder we gave ourselves before heading out: bring plenty of water for her. In June the coast gets hot, there's little shade among the rocks, and a dog can dehydrate faster than you'd think, so we loaded up a collapsible bowl and an extra bottle just for Lúa. Between stretches, the coves are the reward: crystal-clear water, a quick swim, and on we go. It was a perfect morning.

The third day we switched worlds: leaving the coast for the Pyrenees, but we broke up the drive with a stop in Girona at midday. That's the best way to make that trip without it feeling too long. We walked through the Call Jueu—one of Europe's best-preserved Jewish quarters—, climbed the city walls, and looked out at the colorful houses overlooking the Onyar river. As on the coast, dogs are welcome on the streets, so Lúa roamed with us just as happy.

By afternoon we arrived in Ribes de Freser, in the heart of Ripollès, our base for the final two nights. After hours in the car, what we all needed—including Lúa's legs—was flat terrain: we did a stretch of the Fresser river route along the valley floor, beside the river. Shade, water, and easy ground, perfect for stretching out before the big day ahead.

This was the day we were most excited about, and it didn't disappoint. From Ribes de Freser, the rack railway climbs through the valley to the Vall de Núria sanctuary at 1,967 meters, conquering an elevation gain that would be impossible by car. And here's the beauty of traveling with a dog: Lúa rode the train like any other passenger, and once we arrived, she walked freely through the valley.

Up there opens a natural amphitheater of mountains with its lake, green meadows, and short trails you can string together at a leisurely pace. For an untiring border collie like her, it was paradise: plenty of space to run and trot from meadow to meadow without ever getting tired. We spent the day there, at ease, mixing hiking and rest. For lunch, we noted as a flexible plan a mountain meal back in Ribes on the way down: escudella, carn d'olla, Ripollès sausages… Pyrenean cooking in its purest form. We came down at sunset with that feeling of having been somewhere a thousand kilometers from the beach where we'd woken two days before.

We kept the last day easy on purpose: from Ribes to Barcelona is about two hours, so there was no rush. To avoid doing the whole thing in one go, we stopped mid-morning. We wavered between the Santa Maria de Ripoll monastery, with its sculpted Romanesque doorway that's one of Catalonia's gems, or a coffee at Vic's medieval market. Either one breaks up the drive and leaves a good taste.

We arrived back in Barcelona at a comfortable midday, returned the car, and closed the trip. Five days go a long way when you don't waste time changing bases constantly: wild coast, a charming capital, and a Pyrenean valley, all with Lúa as copilot.

A couple of things we were glad to have sorted before leaving. First, Lúa's car kit: veterinary record and microchip up to date, certified safety harness or trunk barrier, collapsible bowl, waste bags, and a towel for the coves. And breaks every two hours on drives—it's a trip for her too.

Second, travel insurance with veterinary coverage. Traveling with a dog, it seemed like money well spent: it covers cancellations, roadside assistance, and unexpected vet bills, which never announce themselves on the road. On lodging, Girona has plenty of pet-friendly options; we went with a rural cottage on the coast and a mountain hotel in Ripollès, both used to welcoming dogs. And a reminder about typical June weather, not a promise: on the coast the heat really kicks in at midday, while up there at nearly 2,000 meters, mornings can be cool. Better to pack for both extremes, thinking of her too.